Edwin Jeans Brand & Product Guide
Growing out of Japanese innovation and excellence, Edwin Jeans has become one of the best-known and most respected names in the denim industry. Always creating new and exciting designs, Edwin is known across the world by those who value high-quality denim.
But what is the true story behind Edwin Jeans and what makes their craftsmanship some of the best in the business? The history of this Japanese icon is as diverse and impressive as the range of denim that Edwin Jeans still offers to this day.
The Edwin Jeans Story
Edwin Jeans began life in 1947, being founded by Mr. Yonehachi Tsunemi. At the time, the USA dominated the denim industry, and denim was not being manufactured in Mr. Tsunemi’s home country of Japan. However, this geographical hurdle did not do anything to deplete his love of the material, and he decided to import from the USA.
The Tokyo-based Edwin company didn't start out as the manufacturer it grew to become. Instead, this importing model allowed jeans to be properly introduced to the Japanese people - and the reaction was immediate. As Mr. Tsunemi’s infectious passion for jeans began to take hold across the country, Edwin had the opportunity to turn its attention beyond importing. Could it become a Japanese denim manufacturer?
In fact, Edwin did not begin manufacturing denim until 1961. Before then, the first Japanese denim was manufactured in 1951, becoming available for purchase in 1953, to much excitement. The result was not as successful as expected, as Japanese manufacturers did not have the experience and skill that American denim giants had been developing for decades.
While today Japanese denim is widely regarded as some of the best in the world, it wasn’t always the case. In the 1950s, the lower-quality Japanese denim (which also came with a high price tag) did not at first make much of a splash in the marketplace, leaving a huge gap.
In 1961, Edwin was finally ready to step into that space. Mr. Tsunemi had been honing his denim for 14 years at this point, and the result was impressive. High quality and striking to the eye, Edwin denim was weighty and unique, with a unique rainbow selvedge helping it stand out from the crowd.
Fast-forward to today and Edwin Jeans has expanded into a global brand, giving more people access to high quality Japanese denim without forgetting its Tokyo roots. With a strong focus on contemporary styles combined with vintage craftsmanship, Edwin continues to be the face of Japanese denim.
A Japanese Denim Pioneer
Since that first leap of faith into the Japanese denim manufacturing arena, Edwin has helped to pioneer and develop Japanese denim. In 1963, the company produced 16 oz ringspun denim jeans, making them the world’s heaviest - and this was just the beginning.
Perhaps surprisingly, Japanese denim is not the same as American denim. While initial attempts to recreate the USA-based technique and product proved unsuccessful, today Japanese denim is exceptionally high quality and completely unique.
Due to the weaving process on Toyoda looms, Japanese denim is not as consistent in texture but has an overall greater stiffness compared to denim from other countries. It's a pure form of denim that has not been altered during the manufacturing process, which is increasingly rare.
As Edwin’s first foray into commercial denim moved away from simple blue jeans, it also became known for its more experimental and innovative appearance. The techniques used to dye the denim are based on ancient Japanese textile dyeing and, as such, colours and details featuring persimmon dyes and rich indigo are common. This can result in a less worn-out look common in American denim, with high contrast fading being a benchmark of Japanese denim.
The weight of the denim is also a standout feature. By creating the world’s heaviest denim, Edwin helped to create the standard for weight associated with Japanese denim today. Combined with a focus on the smallest details - from stitching to button designs - Edwin helped to propel Japanese denim to the top of the industry.
The Influence Of Edwin on the Denim Industry
As well as being one of the most important brands to develop the Japanese denim market, Edwin was also the pioneer of another world first in the 1970s - the “old wash”. This harked back to the classic styles found in American blue jeans that had been broken in through wear. While denim was initially created to be stiff and durable for work, “old wash” allowed jeans to be worn comfortably right away, without needing to wear the material in over time.
A fascinating tidbit that might not be widely known is that the 1980s trend of “stonewash” jeans was not an American invention. The classic '80s look actually grew out of Japan’s very own Edwin Jeans. The company invented the stone washing technique, which soon became the next stage in denim history. Edwin’s new invention was a worldwide hit, and you can see this influence in almost every popular denim brand to this day.
Another industry-leading step that Edwin took was to introduce its signature rainbow selvedge. Selvedge denim refers to how the edges of the material are finished. Self-finished fabrics replace the raw edge finish of mass produced denim, and this means that the jeans are not likely to fray easily.
Due to the smaller looms required to manufacture selvedge denim, the process is more labour intensive and costly. However, most denim lovers value the superior qualities of well made selvedge.
In the 1990s, Edwin yet again influenced the world of denim by establishing the idea of “new vintage” denim. Vintage denim was already a popular way for people to get a classic look by finding pre-loved and worn-in denim items, but Edwin’s creativity fuelled an exciting way to get that special vintage feel from brand-new jeans.
Looking at archive references, Edwin hand-replicated the most beloved vintage washes found on American jeans from before the late 1940s, making it much easier for customers to access the classic washes and fades of denim history. This idea was subsequently adopted by many other denim brands, and nowadays you can see this inspiration throughout the entire denim industry.
Edwin Jeans Craftsmanship
Edwin Jeans has a strong passion for craftsmanship, inherited from Mr. Tsunemi himself. The tiny details beloved by those who truly know denim elevates the brand above many others on the market. The stitching you see on some pairs of Edwins cannot be done on any kind of sewing machine - in fact, the machines used have been specially created by the craftsmen at Edwin. Every pair of jeans can use up to 13 unique threads, and you can even trace the origin of your jeans through the quality certificate found on the care label.
Through this certificate, Edwin allows full transparency between consumer and creator. Wearers can find out where the jeans were crafted and when, and even who made them. Today, you will find that Edwin’s range of denim continues to be manufactured in Japan, but their reach has grown to encompass manufacturing in Tunisia (for the European market) and the USA (for the American market).
Across the world, Edwin continues to be one of the premier brands for selvedge denim, which is in no small part due to the dedicated craftsmanship that goes into every item.
In 2022, Edwin went back to its roots with its new ‘Made in Japan’ range for the UK and US markets. Offering a simplified naming system with a choice of classic yet contemporary fits, and made from a range of high quality Japanese denims, the latest Edwin Jeans collection is a great way to experience what makes the brand special.
Edwin Denim Fabrics
Edwin’s denim fabrics are diverse and incredible, each with its own unique look and feel. These fabrics are used to create some of the most popular and widely recognised Edwin apparel today.
12.6 oz Yoshiko Left Hand Denim
Created using 100% cotton, this sturdy denim is soft to the touch. Woven using a left-hand twill, this goes against the most common weaving technique (which is right-hand twill). This left-hand twill creates a softer feeling and makes the cotton more comfortable to wear. However, it does not lose any of its durability, which makes it ideal for hard-wearing. Once woven, Yoshiko Left Hand Denim is dipped in pure indigo a total of seven times to create its striking appearance.
13.5 oz Nihon Menpu Dark Pure Indigo Rainbow Selvedge Denim
Soft on the hand, this denim is manufactured in the Nihon Menpu Mill. Using genuine Zimbabwean cotton, the material is dyed in-house with 100% indigo dye. This trademark rainbow selvedge denim is one of the most iconic that Edwin has to offer.
14 oz Kurabo Red Listed Selvedge Denim
Created with 100% cotton that contains 6% recycled cotton, this denim is part of Edwin’s ongoing sustainability efforts. The 14oz material uses a right-hand twill and has been manufactured in Edwin’s home country of Japan since the 1970s. First manufactured as KD-55, this vintage denim has an uneven appearance and blue-red shade which remains a classic of the Japanese denim industry.
12.5 oz Kaihara Black x Black Stretch Denim
This rope-dyed cotton blend is a stretch denim with a soft feel. Combining cotton with polyurethane fibre for a durable and sturdy finish, the fabric is sulphur rope dyed for a black colour that has an impressive depth.
11 oz Kaihara Purple x White Listed Selvedge
Bringing together cotton from the USA and Australia, this denim uses only the highest quality materials to produce a sturdy finish. Rope dying in black sulphur provides a durable and tough feel that is still comfortable to wear. The material is woven using an uneven thread count and uses a purple selvedge listing to create a vintage look harking back to the 1960s.
13 oz Kaihara Right-Hand Black Denim
The marble texture of this denim is formed by first weaving US and Australian cotton. The open-end yarn creates the marbled, creped look first popularised in the 1980s, which becomes more apparent when washed. Bringing together this retro aesthetic with the contemporary appeal of black denim, this is a beloved denim in the Edwin collection.
13 oz Kaihara Pure Indigo Stretch Denim
A cotton blend from the Kaihara factory, this fabric is created with the unique Toyoda looms, used for more than forty years. These well-worn techniques are still able to create the best quality denim, which is then dipped in pure indigo ten times and pre-shrunk to ensure minimal shrinking later on. The denim is set with heat to give it the best possible stretch, keeping every pair of jeans in shape without sagging.
11.6 oz Nicola Blue Denim
Using the traditional right-hand twill construction with 100% cotton, Nicola Blue Denim is mid-weight for optimal comfort. Not only that but the cotton is supplied by Orta Anadol in Turkey, a Fair Trade Cotton-certified supplier. This fabric is ideal for stone washing to create a vintage look straight out of the 1980s and 1990s. Dipped in indigo ten times, the fabric maintains a light base that handles washing well, creating an authentic stonewash appearance perfect for jeans, pants and jackets.
Edwin’s Core Product Range
Moving beyond the denim jeans that made the brand famous, Edwin Jeans now has a range of core products that are created using thoughtful design and expert manufacturing processes. From essential sweatshirts to novelty items, there are so many different Edwin products to choose from.
Edwin Denim Jeans
Available in a variety of different washes and denim fabrics, Edwin’s denim jeans continue to be the backbone of the company. The jeans come in a variety of cuts to suit your style, including classic straight fit as well as loose tapered, regular tapered, slim tapered, and skinny fit.
Edwin’s Made in Japan range is constructed from high quality Japanese denim, and features premium stitching, rivets and hardware throughout.
Branching out, Edwin’s denim pants offer a relaxed fit or a cropped style in a range of different washes and colours. You can also find the same high-quality denim in shorts that are ideal for summer wear.
Edwin T-Shirts
Edwin t-shirts perfectly complement the jeans, pants and shorts in their collection. There is an impressively wide choice of t-shirts to add to any wardrobe, made from breathable cotton for comfortable wear. Classic short sleeve t-shirts usually feature stylish and subtle motifs that reflect Edwin’s Japanese heritage.
Edwin also regularly drops superb printed t-shirts with designs inspired by its Japanese heritage, while remaining at the forefront of current trends. It is easy to see the brand’s dedication to detail in these t-shirts, with thoughtful motifs and unique artwork creating stylish and comfortable tops that are easy to style every day.
Edwin Sweatshirts & Hoodies
For warmth and style, Edwin sweatshirts and hoodies are an excellent choice. Constructed from premium materials like 350g felpa fleece and 100% loopback cotton, Edwin’s range of sweatshirts are built for lasting comfort.
Sweatshirts are finished with ribbed hems and cuffs for comfort, while hooded sweats are made with coordinated drawstrings and kangaroo pouches.
Edwin offers sweatshirts in a range of colours, including popular choices that are easy to wear like blacks, blues, greys and neutrals. As with the brand’s t-shirts, its hoodies deliver a contemporary look with added flourishes of Japanese style that nod to the brand’s roots.
Edwin Jackets & Outerwear
Edwin’s range of jackets and outerwear perfectly complements the brand’s denims, offering a range of styles that put a modern twist on classics. From military inspired field jackets and bombers, to blazers that can go from smart to casual setting with ease, there’s plenty to enjoy in Edwin’s jacket range.
As with all Edwin products, jackets and outerwear feature great attention to detail with quality materials and construction used throughout. Colours include browns, olives, blacks and blues, which make Edwin jackets easy and versatile to wear.
In typical Edwin style, its jacket designs are usually pretty much timeless, meaning you can pick up an Edwin jacket and wear it for years while always looking fresh.
Edwin Accessories
The Japanese passion for focusing on the smallest and most intricate details extends to the Edwin accessories collection. These include various unique gifts and homeware that the brand reseases from time to time, as well as essential accessories including belts, hats and socks.
Edwin leather belts are made from premium materials and ensure a perfect fit for your jeans and pants. Edwin socks and other must-have accessories such as lanyards, blankets and aprons are all on offer to make daily life a little more comfortable and stylish. Though this branches out from the classics of the Edwin brand, each accessory is carefully curated to suit the style and quality we have come to expect from this Japanese icon.
Edwin Jeans FAQs
Edwin Jeans is founded on a basis of authenticity and accountability. Here are just some of the frequently asked questions about this beloved brand.
When did Edwin Jeans become popular?
Edwin Jeans began to become a household name in the 1980s and 1990s, when they became more widely recognised throughout the world. Their popularity in Japan began much sooner than this, however, picking up steam in the 1970s. The popularity of Edwin Jeans continues to this day, in Japan and around the world.
How was the Edwin brand name produced?
The name “Edwin” was thought up by rearranging the letters that make up the world “denim” - complete with an upside down “m”.
Where Is Edwin denim Made?
Edwin denim is still manufactured in Japan using uniquely Japanese methods and Toyoda machines.
Is Edwin a sustainable brand?
Edwin is seeking to expand on their sustainable denim practices, with a focus on using sustainable materials such as recycled cotton, and sourcing cotton from Fair Trade Cotton certified suppliers. Edwin USA holds a “good” environmental rating.
